31 Days of Life in my Hawaii Day 15:: Beach and ocean: Surfing

You knew I was going to do a post about surfing this month, didn’t you?

Surfing, of course was not only invented in Hawaii, it’s Hawaii’s signature sport.

Even so, you’d be surprised how many people here have never even been on a surfboard, much less take it up as a hobby.

That doesn’t apply to our family, however. We’re what you’d call a multi-generational surfing family.

Last week when I said that hanging out on the beach is the best stress reliever there is, I was talking about myself. My husband, his dad, and our boy would argue that case for surfing.

All three of them began surfing at a young age, which is how most surfers get their start. As soon as you can swim — and sometimes before, if your dad puts you on his board with him — you get out on your board in the little shorebreak surf. What we call ankle snappers.

Eventually you gain more skills and graduate to bigger and more challenging waves. But real surfers will tell you: it’s not about how big the wave is, and they’re right. You can have fun in any size waves.

It’s not real hard to learn, but it might take years to get really good at it. I picked it up when I was around 14 or so, but I’ve never gotten better than so-so at it.

Still, the ones who surf for fun (that is to say, most surfers) would argue that that’s not the point. What it’s really about is being out in the ocean — some would say one with the ocean — enjoying the beauty of God’s creation while playing on the waves. It can be — and often is — therapeutic and exhilarating at the same time.

This is the fifteenth post in my series, 31 Days of Life in my Hawaii. Click here to get the links to the other posts in the series.

Advertisements

One thought on “31 Days of Life in my Hawaii Day 15:: Beach and ocean: Surfing

  1. Debbie

    Yeah, I knew this topic was coming. 🙂 I’m scared of water and don’t know how to even swim so I envy you all.

    Reply

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s